See what a lender would likely say before you ever apply. No credit pull, no hard inquiry, no phone calls.
Tell us roughly where your score sits and we will show you the range you would qualify for, which loan programs fit, and exactly what is standing between you and a real pre-approval letter.
1
What do you think your credit score is?
A rough band is enough. Nothing here touches your credit.
Credit score range
If you are guessing, guess low. It is better to be surprised upward.
2
Income and employment
Gross, before taxes. Include a co-borrower only if they will be on the loan.
$
$
Leave at 0 if buying alone.
How you earn it
Cleanest file to underwrite.
3
Monthly debt payments
Minimum payments only. These come straight off what you can borrow.
$
$
$
$
Child support, alimony, personal loans.
4
Cash on hand
What you have saved, and how much of it you actually want to spend.
$
$
months
Closing costs typically run another 2 to 3 percent of the price on top of your down payment.
5
The home you have in mind
Used to test your numbers against a real target, not just a ceiling.
$
% of price / yr
California runs about 1.1 to 1.3. Texas runs closer to 1.8 to 2.3.
$/ mo
$/ mo
Loan term
High-cost covers Los Angeles, Orange, San Francisco, San Mateo, Santa Clara, Marin, Contra Costa and similar. It raises the conforming limit from $832,750 to $1,249,125.
6
What you already have gathered
Underwriting stalls on missing paper more than on bad numbers.
What this tool actually checks
Most pre-approval calculators multiply your income and hand back a number. That number tells you almost nothing, because a lender is not looking at your income. A lender is looking at five things at once, and any one of them can stop a file.
Credit band, which sets your rate and your mortgage insurance at the same time. Those two costs compound.
Debt-to-income ratio, both the housing piece and the total. Every monthly minimum payment counts fully against you.
Down payment and reserves. What is left in the bank after closing matters more than most first-time buyers expect.
Income stability. Two years in the same line of work is the clean case. Everything else needs explaining.
Documentation. Files stall on missing paper more often than on bad numbers.
Why the estimate is a range, not a number
The low end of the range is what fits comfortably at a 36 percent debt-to-income ratio. The high end is the ceiling an underwriter would likely stretch to for your program. Both are real. They answer different questions, and the gap between them is where buyers get house poor.
Why the same buyer gets a different answer under FHA and conventional
Programs disagree on nearly everything. Conventional wants a 620 score and allows as little as 3 percent down, and its mortgage insurance falls off once you reach 20 percent equity. FHA opens at 580 with 3.5 percent down but keeps mortgage insurance for the life of most loans. VA requires eligibility but asks for no down payment and no monthly mortgage insurance at all. Above your county's conforming limit, everything tightens.
The tool tests all four against your inputs and tells you which ones fit and, when they do not, why.
What this does not replace
This is a planning tool. A real pre-approval means a lender pulls your credit, verifies your income and assets, and issues a letter a listing agent can rely on. Use this first to find out where you stand and what to fix. Then go get the letter.
No. Nothing here contacts a credit bureau. You tell us roughly where your score sits and we work from that, so there is no inquiry of any kind, hard or soft.
Is this an actual pre-approval?
No. A pre-approval comes from a licensed lender who verifies your credit, income and assets and issues a letter. This estimates what that lender would likely find, so you can fix problems before they cost you a house.
I do not know my credit score. What should I do?
Pull it free at AnnualCreditReport.com, or check whether your card issuer or bank already shows it. Until then, guess low. The tool treats an unknown score conservatively, and every number shifts once you know the real one.
Why is my estimated range lower than other calculators say?
Because this one subtracts your actual monthly debts, and it includes property taxes, insurance, HOA dues and mortgage insurance in the payment. Calculators that skip those return a number no underwriter would recognize.
What debt-to-income ratio do I need for pre-approval?
It depends on the program. Conventional loans commonly go to about 45 percent total debt-to-income, FHA to about 43 percent with a 31 percent housing cap, and VA around 41 percent with a residual income test. Compensating factors can push these higher, and every lender applies its own overlays.
How much do I need for a down payment?
Conventional can go as low as 3 percent for qualified first-time buyers, FHA as low as 3.5 percent, and VA and USDA can allow zero. The better question is how much you can put down while still leaving healthy reserves in the bank.
Does a bigger down payment always help?
Not always. It lowers your payment and can remove mortgage insurance at 20 percent, but draining your reserves to get there weakens your file. Lenders want to see money left after closing.
How long does a real pre-approval take?
Often 24 to 72 hours once a lender has your documents, though a file with self-employment income, recent job changes or credit issues takes longer. Having your paperwork ready is the single biggest lever on speed.
Is this financial advice?
No. This tool is for educational planning only. Final decisions should be reviewed with a licensed mortgage professional and, where relevant, a financial or tax advisor.